Matera

You take a train in Salerno, then a bus, and three and a half hours later you’re in Matera, the place where so many films were made, from Pasolini's The Gospel According to St Matthew to Mel Gibson’s The Passion of the Christ. While I was there it was Morgan Freeman who was shooting a remake of Ben Hur.

Matera is known for the Sassi, the caves that for centuries were the homes of many people and their animals, all under one roof (there are a couple of museums that recreate this). Many of the caves also served as churches. Wonderfully preserved, the city has been declared world heritage by UNESCO and the caves that were once the symbol of misery nowadays attract tourists from all over the world. Matera will be European Capital of Culture in 2019.

Walking in the empty streets of Sasso Barisano at dusk can feel like you're back many centuries ago, if it wasn't for the electricity. It is an almost biblical place and it's no wonder so many movies are shot there.

And then, there is the food, and the Basilicata wines.

And the light.

The cross left on the Belvedere by the crew of Ben Hur

Matera seen from the trails near the Belvedere

One of the many chiesi rupestri