For every beginning is also a continuation, and the book of events is always open (W. Szymborska).: March 2015

Wednesday, 11 March 2015

Eros in ancient Rome and Magna Grecia

All pictures below were taken in Naples (Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli), Pompeii and Paestum.

Monday, 9 March 2015

Matera

You take a train in Salerno, then a bus, and three and a half hours later you’re in Matera, the place where so many films were made, from Pasolini's The Gospel According to St Matthew to Mel Gibson’s The Passion of the Christ. While I was there it was Morgan Freeman who was shooting a remake of Ben Hur.

Matera is known for the Sassi, the caves that for centuries were the homes of many people and their animals, all under one roof (there are a couple of museums that recreate this). Many of the caves also served as churches. Wonderfully preserved, the city has been declared world heritage by UNESCO and the caves that were once the symbol of misery nowadays attract tourists from all over the world. Matera will be European Capital of Culture in 2019.

Walking in the empty streets of Sasso Barisano at dusk can feel like you're back many centuries ago, if it wasn't for the electricity. It is an almost biblical place and it's no wonder so many movies are shot there.

And then, there is the food, and the Basilicata wines.

And the light.

The cross left on the Belvedere by the crew of Ben Hur

Matera seen from the trails near the Belvedere

One of the many chiesi rupestri

Sunday, 8 March 2015

Villa Cimbrone, Ravello

Sometimes you are familiar with places which names you don’t even know, because you have seen pictures in the media or elsewhere, but you never bothered to check where they were, nor their story. Then, one day, you end up there by chance.

This happened to me when I visited Villa Cimbrone (now a luxury hotel, but you can visit he gardens), in Ravello, and ended up at the Terrace of Infinity. So, it’s here, I thought. I had seen this place so often, it belonged to my mental images of Italy, and suddenly I was in the picture.

There is something special when places leave the realm of abstract beauty and geography and become part of your experience. You’re there. You can see them, feel them. You read their story on a bench and, for a little while, they're yours.

Mercury's seat. Catullus' poem.

Terrace of Infinity

The Villa (now a hotel)

The Rose Terrace. Poem by Omar Khayyam.

Capri under the rain

So what do you do when you’re in Capri and against all expectations (why do we insist in having expectations) it is raining, and you’ve already visited and basked in the gardens of Villa San Michele?

You do whatever you had planned anyway, because this is Capri and you’re here and it’s out of the question that you leave without doing the trails, visiting Villa Jovis and the Tiberius Leap behind it, the Augustus Gardens and their view of Via Krupp.

Then of course on the day that you’re leaving the sun comes out and you rush to take the funiculare up to Monte Solaro before doing the 3 hour hike you wouldn’t dare to do under the rain, the Sentiero dei Fortini, on the West side of the island. It departs from the famous Grotta Azzurra, that you can’t visit because of the sea conditions, but you’re rewarded with a clear view of Mount Vesuvius far away.

It’s not difficult to understand why everybody since ancient times (Emperor Tiberius moved to Capri and ruled the Roman Empire from there) has fallen in love with Capri. If only for the views, you want to stay here for ever. Odyssey's sirens didn't leave far away, according to legend. Maybe Capri's cliffs played the same tricks.

But the time inevitably comes when you have your last limoncello, take the ferry and head for the Amalfi Coast – more beauty to come.